FIJI ~ Course Description

Orientation

"Why Fiji is visited by such small numbers is puzzling ... for there is not a more interesting or enjoyable trip on the globe ...When the picturesque-looking peaks ... stand boldly out against the dark-blue horizon, 'tis really a sight to be remembered." Colonel F.E. Pratt, Editor of The Commercial Directory and Tourists Guide to the South Pacific Islands. 1875.

In more recent times, a group of travel writers were polled as to which locale they enjoyed most. All questioned agreed with Pratt: The Fijian Islands. When Captain Bligh (of Mutiny on the Bounty fame) sailed past the Fiji Islands in 1789, he did so in a hurry. These island gems in the South Pacific were more feared than adored in his day. Indeed, the maps of early explorers and merchant traders referred to the archipelago as the "Cannibal Islands." The days of man-eating are over in Fiji, but please sign your release wavers just in case. All kidding aside, Fijians are some of the most friendly and hospitable people you will encounter anywhere. It is not unusual for a village chief to welcome you into his compound with full ceremony. The main reason the travel writers are so fond of Fiji is because of its people.

Suva
After a six-hour flight from Honolulu, board a charter bus for a two and a half -hour drive to the capital city of Suva. Along the way, view the magnificent Nausari mountainous peaks and grassy slopes. Halfway to Suva, you will pass by the famed Coral Coast, with its legendary white sand beaches and colorful offshore reefs. As you near Suva proper, watch arid hillsides give way to diverse rainforests.

Suva is a bustling, steamy, port city, with rainforests at the doorsteps of its 167,000 residents, and a distant reef that keeps the facing seas calm. The University of the South Pacific, a four-year collegiate institution, has its main campus just outside the capital city. Students from all corners of the South Seas attend. I.C.E. calls upon lecturers from USP to deliver several of the spirited introductions to island culture and ecology. Adding to the cultural diversity found on campus and in towns is a merchant-minded Indian middle class whose origins can be traced to the early 20th century sugar plantations.

This diversity of place is represented by the diversity of the religious temples seen within and around the city limits. The chorus of Christian hymns sung in the trademark falsettos by Fijian men and women make a Sunday walk through town a musical one. Neighboring Mosques, as well as Sikh and Hindu temples, add to the pageantry of religion that binds communities, and creates a sense of place in this island archipelago.

A detailed questionnaire on the cultural ecology of Suva will be circulated. Students will comb the city streets in search of answers. A visit to the city market will help formulate an answer to a question on cultivated crops. A survey of businesses lining the city streets will help clarify the ethnic diversity of the workplace. Upon completion of the questionnaire, return to base and share your findings with the rest of your fellow students.

Highlights of your orientation period include a visit to the Fiji National Museum. Tucked amidst the shadows of towering monkey pod trees and adjacent to a city ballpark, the National Museum houses Fiji's foremost prehistoric gallery. Tour the museum and discuss Fijian geography. Speak with tapa weavers about their ancient practice, and how the fibers of their craft help to hold Fijian culture together. We will also examine a life-size drua canoe, and the technology of the period that once placed Fijians among the world leaders in seamanship.

Take in the great collections of war clubs, spears, brain forks, and the other niceties associated with tribal warfare. Linked to both warfare and art, Fijians used the human body as a canvas for elegant and detailed tattoos. Sacred colors and timeless patterns decorated the torso, arms, and faces of many a Fijian prior to the arrival of Christian missionaries.

Other highlights include a hike into Colo-I-Suva State Park: a park of international significance. An important refuge for coastal rainforest, this park is home to more than 16 species of birds, including the spotted fantail, island thrush, Fiji white-eye and blue-crested broadbill. The park is as an important watershed for Suva and the surrounding area. Participants will hike along the intricate trail system and have an opportunity to swim in pools for a beat-the-heat immersion that all are sure to enjoy.

The lecture component of our orientation will feature top USP professors. Discussions on Fijian politics will help illuminate some of the struggles this island nation has faced in the past few years. Comparisons between the 1987 political upheaval, and more recent problems plaguing the Fijian government will be discussed. As the recent problems have been centered on race and political control, our speaker will go into detail on the possible solutions for a society divided roughly 50/50 along ethnic lines: Fijians and Indians.

Another key lecture will focus on the geography of the Fijian Archipelago. With over 500 islands connected by the warm South Seas, learn how diverse natural and human communities flourish in these remote locales. Beginning with the geologic origins of the islands and the formative role of plate tectonics, our speaker will take you on a fast forward walk through geologic time. Included in the discussion will be an overview of island biogeography, as well as cultivated crops found throughout the region.

Eco-tourism is a growing force in the islands. Hear an eco-tourism operator discuss the positive and negative impacts of tourism on Fijian Islanders. With firsthand experience in the industry, she will detail the practices that promote cultural renewal, as well as those that influence cultural deterioration. Focusing on highland villages and the coming of river and other adventure travel, she will show how outside ideas and monies have initiated culture change. Other lecture topics may include women's roles in society, an introduction to Pacific Island reef ecosystems, and cultural do's and don't's.

In the afternoon, enjoy a presentation on Fijian language. Learn the basic salutations and requests, begin to build your vocabulary in preparation for closer contact with ethnic Fijians, and discuss proper etiquette and cultural expectations for the different gender roles while in remote areas.

Housing
Interns will live in dormitory-style accommodations at the Raintree Lodge, eight miles north of Suva proper. Students will live communally, or 3-4 per room, with shared clean hot showers and bathroom facilities located downstairs. The wooden buildings and pitch pole lodge design contributes to the forest atmosphere. The 1,500-foot elevation and dense rainforest helps keep humidity and temperatures comfortable. The compound itself features two small ponds for mid-day swims, an outdoor restaurant that is a virtual extension of the landscape, and ample hiking across the street in nearby the State Park.

A model example of responsible eco-tourism, the lodge promotes cultural awareness and environmental stewardship in a number of key ways. The majority of the staff are ethnic Fijians and their legendary hospitality translates into the opportunity for lasting friendships beyond your departure date. What is more, the owner actively pursues cooperative relationships with nearby Fijian villages to promote positive cultural exchange while bringing tourist dollars into the villages.

Food can be purchased at the lodge restaurant with meals averaging $4.00 or so. The lodge menu is diverse, tailored to a Western palate and the food is exceptional. The restaurant is situated on the pond: passing birds and a welcomed breeze make for good dining.

Ovalau
Following this component of the orientation, participants will travel to Ovalau Island, a short ferry ride off mainland Viti Levu. Both an aesthetic wonder, as well as a historically significant port, Ovalau represents the meeting of Pacific Island peoples and Western politics. The spiritual and geographic center of the island is an extinct volcanic crater. A long day hike to the crater rim affords panoramic views of nearby Leleuvia Island surrounded by crystal clear waters. The Victorian city of Levuka, population 3,000, once served as a supply house for sandalwood traders. The Klondike of the South Pacific, Levuka had a reputation for drunk and disorderly citizens with a penchant unseemly behavior. In 1874, this bustling port of call served as the designated capital of Fiji. This designation was eventually transferred to Suva, owing to the limitations of having a small island as the seat of government.

Our capital-to-capital journey requires two hours of bus travel up the coast to the Patterson Brothers' Ferry. Following our ferry ride, unpack at a friendly historic hotel/hostel that will serve as our home for the next few days. In the afternoon, we will tour the former capital of Levuka, and learn firsthand about the evolution of modern politics in Fiji. What better way to learn about the geology of the region than to hike to the summit of one of Fiji's most interesting volcanic craters? The andesite, rhyolite and dacite outcroppings common on mainland Viti Levu give way to basaltic underpinnings. Compare and contrast Fiji's volcanic history with the more active sites seen on Hawaii.

Your hike into remote Fiji culminates with a brief stopover in Lovoni village. The village has preserved a tightly knit community that maintains strong ties to ancient traditions and practices. Returning to the coastline, we will wash off the red dirt of hard travel in inviting Pacific Ocean waters. Strap on the mask and to do some world class snorkeling.

Village Stay
We have extended our Fiji orientation to include five nights in a remote Fijian village. Without question, the village stay has been the highlight of our past Intern Around the World programs. The feedback from students was that all participants should have a chance to see the real Fiji regardless of their internship choice. Those choosing the village as an internship option will have the opportunity to return to Delelasakau after a short break to enjoy a full immersion, and learn the culture and ecology in greater depth than a short six days can provide.